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Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Back to Basics: Natural Hair Care


I am natural. I have been for the last 8 months. I transitioned for a year and a half and my big chop was on a whim. I find that most of my big decisions have been on a whim. But after 8 months, I'm finally finding my natural footing.

The last 8 months looked something like this:

cleanse with apple cider vinegar
co-wash
deep condition
seal with jojoba oil
blow dry on friday night
flat iron saturday morning
bun until friday

lather, rinse, repeat. You get the picture.

Yesterday I had a revelation. Before I went to bed, I decided to check Curly Nikki, and she had an update where she admitted to using hair grease, which is taboo in the natural hair community. It wasn't so much that she used grease, which I have never been a fan of because it's too heavy, it was that she said her regimen mimicked the one of her younger days. My hair heyday was from 4-10, before I had a perm. My hair was thick and long. My signature style was the threes; one in the front, two in the back. The one in the front, which was placed on the top of my head, was shoulder length and the two in the back, where arm pit length. My hair was healthy.

I asked my mom what she did to my hair and she said that all she did was wash and condition it and it grew like that. I don't know how often she did it, if she used grease or not, but according to her it was a simple wash and go. She washed my hair and let it air dry in the twists and it thrived. I began to think: how do I update that basic regimen for a 25 year old with an adult life and adult responsibilities?

Here is my current regimen:


  1. Shampoo in sections: because my hair is so thick, it's hard to clean my scalp properly, so I decided to rinse shampoo my hair in banded sections and remove them once the scalp is cleansed. Some naturals cleanse in braids but that's too complicated for me and I don't feel like braiding to remove them a few minutes later. 
  2. Tea rinse: I rinse with black tea and let it sit for a few minutes. This adds sheen and strength to my hair.
  3. Cool and seal: I found this method on curlynikki.com and I like it a lot. I add a basic conditioner to my hair and use my hair dryer to heat it for however long my arm holds up. I really like dove repair and Aussie moist conditioners. While the conditioner cools, I use this time to detangle my hair in sections. I section my hair in fours and clip them with butterfly clips. As I move to a section, I divide my hair into two and detangle that way. I  add the deep conditioner to my hair and let it sit for a few minutes before rinsing. I like to use Aussie 3 minute miracle.
  4. I  resection my hair into fours and towel dry it. I band each section with two bands to stretch the hair.I sometimes use a glosser, which adds a nice smell to the dry hair. I allow the hair to air dry. 
  5. my hairstyle of choice is a simple bun that I tie with the headbands which look like a long scrunchy. I tie the band like I'm wearing it as a headband but I tie it 3 times so the bun is smaller. I then twist and pin until everything is in a neat.
  6. for maintenance: I used a water and Garnier Fructis conditioner that I didn't like on my hair and I spritz my hair when it becomes dry. I also use a castor oil and apricot oil mix when my scalp become dries. My dad, who owns a health food store, sent me 16 ounces of this oil which I'm hoping will replace Jojoba oil, which is $10 for four ounces and only lasts a month when used right.$10 is a lot on a budget. The ultimate rule in natural hair care is: do not throw anything away. You can use it as a leave in spritz or when the weather changes. 

That's basic, very few products, and low maintenance. We'll see how that goes but my hair seems to like it. My hair looks healthy and shiner. My hair, straight, natural, or relaxed, likes to be left alone.

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